How to Make Textured Wall Art at Home With Joint Compound and a Putty Knife

Handmade white plaster wave wall art hung above an oak console with a vase and lamp

Plaster art looks like something from a boutique, and most of it sells for well over a hundred dollars. You can make a similar piece for about fifteen dollars in one afternoon. The only skill you need is patience while the material dries.

I made my first textured canvas on a rainy Saturday with leftover drywall mud from a repair. It was not perfect, but it looked better than anything I could find in a store at that price. Here is how to do it, and how to avoid the mistakes I made.

What You Need for DIY Textured Wall Art

Supplies for DIY textured wall art: canvas, joint compound, putty knife, bowl, sandpaper and brush

The supply list is short, and you can find everything at a hardware store.

• A blank canvas, any size (start with 16 by 20 inches)
• Lightweight joint compound, also called drywall mud
• A putty knife or plastic spreader, about three inches wide
• A small bowl and a spoon
• Fine sandpaper, around 220 grit
• Acrylic paint or a tinted wall paint sample
• A soft brush

A tub of joint compound costs less than most framed prints and will cover many projects. Pick the lightweight kind. It dries faster, sands easily, and does not weigh down the canvas as much as the all purpose type.

Cover your work surface with a drop cloth or old cardboard. The mud is easy to clean up when wet, but it turns hard as a rock once it dries.

Prep the Canvas First

Prop the canvas flat on a table. Lay it horizontally, since it keeps the mud from sliding while you work.

Wipe the surface with a dry cloth to remove dust. If the canvas is shiny or has a printed image, rough it up lightly with sandpaper so the compound grips. A plain blank canvas needs no prep at all.

For extra strength, tape the edges with painter’s tape. This keeps the sides clean and gives you a neat border once you peel it off.

Mix the Compound to the Right Texture

Scoop a few spoonfuls into your bowl. Straight from the tub, it should be thick, like frosting. If it looks stiff and dry, stir in a teaspoon of water at a time until it spreads easily.

You can also tint the mud before you start. Mix in a small amount of acrylic paint, and the color runs all the way through the plaster. This is handy for soft beige, greige, or terracotta tones, since chips or sanded spots will not show a white base underneath.

Test the mix on a piece of cardboard first. If it slumps or runs, it is too thin. Add more compound and stir again.

Four Texture Styles to Try

Four plaster wall art textures: soft waves, layered arches, rough stucco and minimal ridges

Once you have the basics, the style depends on how you move the knife. Here are four that work well for beginners.

Soft waves: Scoop a small amount onto the knife and drag it across the canvas in long curved strokes. Overlap each stroke slightly, and let the edges build up into ridges.

Layered arches: Use the corner of the knife to press curved lines, then repeat them below in rows. This gives you a boho rainbow look.

Rough stucco: Dab the surface with a stiff sponge or crumpled foil while the mud is wet. This leaves a pitted, stone-like finish.

Minimal ridges: Spread a thin layer, then drag a comb or notched trowel across it in straight lines. It looks modern and takes about ten minutes.

Pick one style and keep it consistent. Mixing all four on one canvas tends to look messy, so save the extras for the next project.

Apply the Plaster Step by Step

Canvas lying flat with half-finished wave texture and a putty knife resting beside it

1. Start in one corner and spread a layer about an eighth of an inch thick.
2. Work in small sections so the mud does not dry before you shape it.
3. Add texture with your chosen technique while the compound is still wet.
4. Step back every few minutes to check the overall balance.
5. Leave the canvas flat to dry for at least 24 hours.

Thicker layers take longer to dry, and they can crack. If you want more depth, build it up in two thin coats instead of one heavy one. Let the first coat dry fully before adding the second.

Do not fuss over small flaws. Plaster art looks best when it has a handmade, uneven feel. A few rough edges add character.

Sand and Seal for a Clean Finish

After the compound is completely dry, run fine sandpaper lightly over the ridges to knock off any sharp peaks. This gives the surface a smooth, stone-like feel. Wipe off the dust with a soft cloth.

Next, paint the whole piece with a matte or eggshell finish. Warm whites, soft clay, sage green, and charcoal all look good. Use a soft brush and apply thin coats, letting each one dry before the next.

To protect the surface, finish with a coat of clear matte sealer. This is especially useful in kitchens or bathrooms, where moisture and grease can stain bare plaster. Skip glossy sealers, because they show every flaw and can look cheap.

Pick Colors That Match Your Room

Four textured wall art canvases in cream, terracotta, dusty blue and sage green on a shelf

The right color makes a DIY piece look intentional. Pull from what is already in the space.

• Neutral rooms: cream, oatmeal, or warm white
• Rooms with wood tones: terracotta, tan, or soft brown
• Cool or modern rooms: gray, charcoal, or dusty blue
• Rooms with plants: sage, olive, or muted green

Hold your paint sample against the wall before you commit. Colors look different in daylight and lamp light, so check both.

Hang It and Style the Wall

Three matching-color textured canvases with different textures hung in a row above a sofa

Plaster canvases are heavier than regular prints, so use proper hardware. Two sawtooth hangers or a wire and wall anchor works for most sizes. If you rent, a heavy duty adhesive strip rated for the weight is a good option.

Hang the piece so the center sits about 57 inches from the floor. Over a sofa, leave six to eight inches between the frame and the furniture.

For a bolder look, make two or three canvases in matching colors but different textures, and hang them in a row. Keep two to three inches between each. Sets look more expensive than single pieces, and the extra cost is small.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Cracked thick plaster layer compared with a smooth finish made from two thin coats

Cracking is the biggest issue. It usually means the layer was too thick or dried too fast. Keep the canvas out of direct sun and heat, and build up depth with thin coats.

If the surface looks lumpy in a bad way, sand it down and apply a thin skim coat over the top. Plaster is forgiving, and you can fix most problems after it dries.

Another mistake is working with mud that has started to dry in the bowl. If it gets stiff or crusty, throw it out and mix a fresh batch. Dry bits will leave streaks that are hard to remove.

If the paint looks patchy, add another thin coat instead of pressing harder. Two light layers almost always beat one heavy one.

Make It a Habit, Not a One Time Project

Once you finish one canvas, you will probably want to make more. Keep your tools in a small box with the leftover compound sealed tightly. A sealed tub lasts for months.

Try a different size or shape next. Round wooden boards, small square tiles, and tall narrow canvases all work with the same method. Each one costs a few dollars and adds something personal to your walls.

Start with a small 12 by 16 canvas this weekend. If you like how it turns out, you will have a good reason to move on to a bigger piece.